First off let's get a quick rundown on what Cordovan is and why it's special. Original Shell Cordovan leather from the famous Horween Tannery in Chicago is one of the most exclusive luxury goods on the leather market. Shell Cordovan, which has its name from the shell-shaped leather pieces, can be made only from the flanks of horses, owing to its special structure and strength. A shoe made of cordovan leather will wear for a lifetime. Leather connoisseurs can recognise the leather by its intensely deep colouring, usually in classic oxblood or black.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR THE CARE OF CORDOVAN, AND SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS
Cordovan leather has a high fat content, so that, at the start, one usually needs nothing more than to brush the dust off, and rub the polish a little.
But the intensive oil treatment of the leather during the production of cordovan can lead sometimes to the leather showing whitish spots on the upper. This looks a little like mould, but consists only of exuded fats. This can occur to a greater or lesser degree and differs from shoe to shoe. This so-called "blooming" can be removed easily by polishing with a brush or rubbing with a moist cloth. (If the blooming is somewhat stronger in character, lightly warm the leather first with a hair-dryer.)
Cordovan is processed with the flesh side on the outside, and does not have a sealed surface for this reason. The actual surface is a layer of wax. This has the advantage that scratches and rough places can be polished away with no difficulty.
If raindrops come into contact with the surface at the beginning, the fibres swell and the places affected can show little bumps. These "water bumps" can be polished away, just as can scratches and rough places.
In contrast to calf leather, cordovan does not develop wrinkles and small folds; rather, it develops large corrugations in the area of the ball of the foot, where movement is greatest. This corrugated formation cannot be avoided. Even bespoke shoes show this. This formation of corrugation is quite typical of cordovan leather.
Did you know?
-Cordovan leather was first developed by the Spanish Moors in the city of Cordoba to be used as armor on shields and breastplates.